Index
The common question here is "Which type of pack should I choose?"

I recommend an internal frame pack because they sit closer to your back and are less likely to send you off balance, sprawled in the snow, face first. Notice that I say less likely instead of "won't". The face plant is an important part of learning to carry a pack in the snow. If you already have an external pack, it isn't absolutely necessary to go out and buy an internal. I have many friends who regularly snowshoe and even ski with externals on their backs, but it is still a good idea to at least check around and borrow or rent an internal if you can.

Whichever type you choose, proper fit and balance of the load is very important. An ill fitting pack or one that is out out balance will make your trip miserable. It is also important to have enough room for all of the extra gear that you will need to haul with you. Since the warmer clothes and sleeping bag is bulkier, you need about 1/3 more space in the winter. Check with your local outfitter for an evaluation of your equipment. A good salesperson with experience should be willing and able to tune up your gear for you even if you aren't ready to upgrade just yet.


Clothing
Winter weather is unpredictable and can be severe. Proper clothing is your first and last defense against the elements. A layering system is most commonly recommended and consists of three parts. If there is any rule in winter camping, it is to NEVER wear COTTON. Cotton is great for desert hiking and around town, but since it stores water in its fibers, and water lowers the tempurature as it evaporates, it cools the wearer. In the winter, your prime objective is to Conserve heat, not loose it.
  1. Wicking Layer -The layer next to the skin to wick moisture away. The most important part of your layering system bercause it is closest to you. This can be a natural fiber like wool or silk, or a synthetic fiber like Polypropylene, Thermastat, Capeline, or BiPolar. I use the Patagonia Mens Mediumweight Zip T and my Marmot Mens Mediumweight Bottom for most activities. Synthetics are preferred over natural fibers because they wick moisture better, dry faster, and last longer. Although silk is very comfortable, it does absorb water and dries slowly. Wool was the standard until synthetics were developed and although it still is an alternative for those that can't tolerate synthetics, all except Marino Wool are scratchy, all are slow to dry and smell when wet. A word of caution regarding Polypro. It is cheaper and does wick very well, but it retains odor and if accidently thrown in the dryer, it will shrink to doll clothes size. The other synthetics are more expensive ($30 to $100) but well worth their higher price tag.

  2. Insulating Layer - This layer traps warm air that your body has heated up. Modern winter travelers rely on polar fleece and Down or Synthetic lofting fibers like Quallofil, Polarguard or Primaloft as insulation. An example of these is the Patagonia Puff Jacket - Womens Commonly combined with the protective layer in ski parkas and jackets used in the city, in the backcountry it is better to keep this seperate from the shell to allow for changable conditions. When you start going up a hill, it is a good idea to remove a layer of insulation to prevent overheating, and then replacing them as you cool down. This isn't possible if your shell and insulation are combined in one piece. For moderate conditions, a Polartec Fleece jacket is the best choice, and in extreme cold a down sweater can be added. In camp you might find yourself wearing all your layers since you are not working as hard and generating as much heat. My personal favorite is my Marmot Mens Driclime Windshirt. It is light weight, compact, very warm and breathable and so comfortable that I wear it daily around town. A low cost alternative to the high tec garmets is an acrylic sweater. Much cheaper than a down or fleece jacket they will provide the necessary air space to insulate you provided you have a good quality shell over it.

  3. Protective layer - Next to the wicking layer, this is the most important part of your clothing system. The outer layer protects the two inner layers from wind, rain, and snow. The best type of fabric for this layer is Gore-Tex or other waterproof-breathable material. Since you will encounter a wide variety of conditions, you will need an outer shell that will keep you dry, protect you from wind, and still let the perspiration that you will be generating evaporate. That means it has to let moisture vapor pass through but keep water droplets out. A waterproof-breathable fabric allows moisture vapor to pass through but keeps water droplets out. The fabric has millions of microscopic holes in it which are large enough to allow water vapor through but are too small to let liquid water in. Perspiration evaporates through the shell but rain and snow stays out. A few examples are Marmot Minima Jacket - Womens or the affordable Marmot Oracle Jacket - Mens. If you are on a tight budget, some less expensive alternatives are light weight nylon shell jacket and pants that cost under $50 each. This will work in a pinch. Some campers even use PVC coated rainsuits, but use caution with this type of gear and stay close to shelter, it may not protect you in really nasty conditions.

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Where Do I Start?

Snowshoes or Skis?

Which type of Pack works best?

What do I wear?

Should I carry a tent?

What about Sleeping Bags and Pads?

Which Stove should I get?

Is there anything else I might want?

I want to know more. Where do I look?