Shelter
Where
do we go to get out of the wind, snow, cold, etc? If the conditions
are just right, you know what you are doing, and you have the
right gear, you can simply spend about three or four hours digging
a snow cave. The only drawback is that they are a little wet,
and require some work to build. If you are fit and have the time,
that is not a problem, and a snow cave that is properly constructed
is warm and cozy in even the worst storm. This is not a complete
primer on snow caves and there are many things that I have not
included, but here are a few tips on construction.
When you start your cave, pick a slope where the snow has collected
fairly deep but is somewhat consolidated. Avoid any slopes that
pose an avalanche danger! Start digging below the point that will
be the floor and angle up slightly as you dig. This puts the door
below the floor and will trap heat in the cave. When you have
gone up a few feet, tunnel straight back and up, taking care not
to punch through to the surface. When you have a tunnel built
far enough back to allow you to strech out full length, cut a
sleeping platform starting higher than the door opening, sloping
slightly from front to back so meltwater runs off. You can cut
shelves in the side of the cave to store your gear, and round
off the inside of the cave so drips run down the walls instead
of falling on you. It is VERY IMPORTANT to push a ski pole, branch
or ski through the top of the cave to provide ventilation. This
will have to be maintained during storms so the hole doesn't plug
up. If there are more people in the cave, make more ventilation
holes so you don't sufocate.
If you don't want to go through all that work and want to be more
mobile, a quality four season tent is a good idea. The most common
question here is "What makes a tent Four Season?". A four season
tent has a stronger frame to withstand a snow load and high winds,
a full coverage rainfly to protect the tent body, and usually
has a vestibule to provide a place to get out of wet gear before
entering. They usually are made out of heavier materials and have
less mesh to retain heat better, or zip in covering for all mesh,
and have many tie points on the rainfly to secure them in extreme
conditions. When setting a tent in the snow, its often necessary
to make a level platform and sometimes make a snow wall to protect
the tent and cooking area. Since it is easy to dig and mold the
snow and it will melt in the spring, you can build whatever you
have the energy for. I usually dig a trench in front of the tent
door so I can sit in the door (See Picture)
and take off my boots without stooping. This can also be used
as an emergency kitchen in a serious storm, but BE CAREFUL, a
tent fire in the backcountry is the ultimate disaster.
If you don't have a four
season tent and can't afford one, a good three season can weather
all but the worst conditions if you prepare it properly. Building
a snow wall around it and digging it into the snow will protect
it from the direct force of the wind, and if it's snowing, you
can clear the accumulation off regularly. Fiberglass poles tend
to break in the cold and under the force of a heavy snow load,
so I recommend against them. If you think that you will encounter
extreme conditions, you might consider renting or borrowing a
true four season. As I would recommend for any kind of camping,
be sure to bring some kind of ground cover to protect the tent
floor. I use a quilted type emergency blanket, the type that has
reflective mylar on one side and woven plastic tarp material on
the other. This helps to reflect some of your heat back into the
tent if you put the shiny side up. It can also come in handy if
you need a fast emergency shelter.
Top
Sleeping
Bags and Pads
Ok, now what about your
sleeping arrangements? Why can't you just take that old three
season 20 degree bag that you use for the summer and wear clothes?
In an emergercy you can get a little more warmth out of a bag
by wearing your clothes, but my experience is that the bag does
not supply any heat, your body does,and so if you insulate your
body from the sleeping bag, then it never warms up inside the
bag, ie your extremeties never get the benefit of your warmer
torso and tend to stay cold. I have spent a very cold night in
a bag that was not insulated enough for the tempearture and tried
to stay warm with clothes on. I was told by an oldtimer that if
I took all but my long underwear off and used my extra clothes
as a blanket that I would be warmer. After that sleepless first
night, I was willing to try it, and was amazed to find that it
worked.
The best way to stay warm
is to buy, rent, or borrow a 0 degree or colder rated bag. If
you are cold blooded (you sleep cold) then go to a colder rated
bag, warmer blooded people may be ok in a three season bag but
don't count on it. The sleeping bag and pad is your last line
of defense so don't compromise there. As far as fill or insulation,
the options are Down or Synthetic. I prefer down which is lighter,
more compressible, and has a longer life. Look at bags that use
550 fill power or better. Fill power is calculated by taking one
ounce of down, placing it in a cylinder with a weighted disc on
top and then removing the disc. The cubic inches in volume that
the unweighted down occupies is known as its fill power. This
is important because the higher the fill power, the more a bag
of equal weight will loft, and loft equals warmth. The only problem
is that the higher the fill power, the lighter the bag, the more
money it costs. A zero degree, 600 fill down bag will cost between
$200 and $300 and the 800 fill power goes for around $400 and
up. Since down can loose loft if it gets wet, you can add another
$100 to $150 for a Gore-Tex Dryloft shell.
Synthetic bags are a less
expensive alternative however there is a trade off here also.
The synthetic fill can weigh a pound or better more than even
the 550 fill down bags and their lifetime is often shorter than
down. Still since moisture doesn't affect these fills like it
does down, they can be a better choice in wet climates and for
extended trips in the snow. Expect to spend $150 to $350 for a
first rate synthetic bag.
The other part of your
sleeping system is the ground pad. Don't scrimp here either. A
40 below bag does you little good if you are sleeping directly
on the snow. I like to go as light as I can and in California
where the temps don't often go much below zero, I use an ultralight
3/4 length thermarest and a full length ridgerest pad (Corrugated
closed cell foam). I also carry a piece of 1/2" closed cell foam
that is about 18" x 20" for a seat on the trail. This doubles
as a foot warmer when standing around and and extra insulator
for my feet at night to make up for the short thermarest. I know
some mountain guides that use only the foam pads and often carry
two, since they are usually wearing crampons and thermarest pads
are pretty useless if they are punctured. I do always carry a
repair kit for mine.
A trick used by many who
camp in the snow frequently is to buy a bag that is a little long
so you can put your clothes inside it. This makes getting dressed
a little more comfortable in the morning. Another trick is to
use those extra clothes to help insulate from the snow underneath
you. Even a thremarest pad will let a little heat escape to the
ground (or snow), so if you put them between the bag and the pad,
you will stay a little warmer.
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